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CP2102 USB to Serial Modules

OK, these particular modules have been around for a bit and there is simply no reason why they are still popping up all over the place having this overvoltage defect.

What is the issue?
The USB +5.0 volt Vcc line is connected directly to the CP2102 RST line, thus causing the CP2102s +3.3 volt internal regulator to latch horrible wrong. This is causing the regulator to dump out +4.2 volts to the 3v3 IDC pin connector, rather than the expected +3.3v.
Seeing that as most 3.3-volt devices have a maximum rating of +3.6 volts, the +4.2 volts is going to stress the silicon or outright kill the device connected to it.
I have several of these USB to Serial modules as both completely unbranded and as CJMCU types.  So, this tells me several batches have been run, or even worse people making copies have all failed to test the design at the end.

Whoever made these things, failed to build a simple prototype or do a small batch run to correct issues.
EVERYONE SELLING THEM IS FAILING TO DO EVEN A SIMPLE QC SPOT CHECK or worse they know about the overvoltage issue on the +3.3 volt output and just do not give a fuck and keep selling them.

Was looking into a tool purchase, for doing some work on the rusted Jeep suspension and ran into some typical American Math.

So, the same product; except you get the coil kit "
FREE", you just have to pay an extra $50.94.


It's cold out.. so, a good day to update a few things on the site.

USB Thumb Drive Awareness

Life Lesson: Don’t put personal or work data on a USB thumb drive unless you make damn sure that information is encrypted.

Did you know that globally over 20+ million USB flash drives are lost every year.

The BAD:

* Cannot recommend USB drives with built in hardware security, as they too are vulnerable and have been circumvented…repeatedly.  (Aka: SanDisk, Kingston, Toshiba...ect)
* Thumb drive out of sight? Then assume someone has physical access to it.
* Deleting a file only removes headers to the file, that file is still there until something overwrites those areas with new data.
* Quick formatting also only removes the file headers, files can still easily be recovered.
* NEVER USE THE FAT ALLOCATION TABLE, it is legacy flawed and cannot be repaired & will not be repaired and a majority of USB Thumb Drives use this format as default out of the package.
* Still using the autorun feature, turn it the fuck off.

The Not so BAD:

* Run truecrypt software on everything; HDD, Removable HDD, USB Hard Drives BUT especially USB Thumb drives as you are more likely to carry them and lose them.
* Deny access to the hardware, sometimes difficult if you just happen to drop the thumb drive in a parking lot... shit happens to even the best of people.
* Use Eraser or File Shredder programs to truly delete files (This applies to Hard Drives as well)
* Don't use them, alternatives are cloud storage and yes this brings up all sort of other issues... you are encrypting your cloud storage, Right!

Why is this important and how did all this USB Thumb Drive stuff come about?

It all started when I found the remains of a USB thumb drive in a rain puddle of a local parking lot and figured it would make an interesting repair project to see if I could actually get it working.  Ehh! it's a challenge.

1. Here is what I found... no too bad, far better then some I have seen.


2. It has been run over skewing the Flash Ram, pulling up some pads and traces in the process too. Been outside for awhile, long enough for a critter to hatch a baby on it anyway.


3. Crystal is trash and parts knocked off, fair amount of corrosion on both sides of the board.


4. Heated and pulled off board parts, started cleaning up pcb traces.


5. Replaced missing parts, made the needed repairs to damaged traces and added USB cord connection.


6. This shows the wire route... nothing spectacluar it should just work for the time needed for data collection.


7. The U4 IC pin was corroded so when I placed the tip of the soldering iron onto it, off it came. Again, no problem. I just grabbed the xacto knife and pelled back some of the plastic to expose the pin and a quick tack of solder should do the trick. But will it work?


8. and we have a BINGO!  I won't go into what was stored on the device, except to say YES IT SHOULD HAVE BEEN ENCRYPTED.  What can you say, people are lazy, don't care or don't know any better, or YES all the above. Anyways!?!?!


9. All these USB Thumb Drives seem to use the Silicon Motions Flash Controller Chips. So, heading over to the mfg's website and we can grab some software tools to look at settings up the USB Drive Internally. WOW! lots of options and very flexible hardware/firmware setup I'm actually rather impressed with what you can do with these things now.  They should offer some real end user tools like this.


10. Anyway, lots of fun was had and my tech skills are still around a  B-.  I've pulled everything off I want to keep and now ready for some delamination fun.


11. A little FeCL3 (Ferric Chloride) should do the trick.


12. and presto magik Bobs Your Uncle it's all gone. I snapped the chip even though I used the mfg's software tools to shred the crap out of that Samsung Flash Chip internally.


13. Moral of this story, if you are gonna carry 'any' storage device around... Encrypt..encrypt..EnCrYpT..tPyRcNe..
oh yeah and USB Thumb Drives are ticking time bombs, sooner or later every encryption falls. So, just try to be aware of what you are loading onto them when you drop it in your purse, pants pocket or backpack. If you don't need to have those copies of XYZ documents because you are finished needing them, remove them off the thumb drive.

usb lot

BTW, don't be a dick. The person that dropped this did so by mistake and the things I did to get it running are just slightly above average. They fucked up, I'm glad I was the one that found it and not some jackass.

So Yeah, please ENCRYPT your stuff.

* Read about what happen to the ARMY and how the (Thumb Drive Awareness TIA TDA 3400) program came into play.

* http://www.truecrypt.org/docs/?s=truecrypt-portable

* http://www.anewmorning.com/2008/10/06/how-to-create-the-ultimate-encrypted-flash-drive

# # # #

This information and the circuits are provided as is without any express or implied warranties. While every effort has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this text, the authors/maintainers/contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein.

I disclaim everything. The contents of the articles might be totally inaccurate, inappropriate, or misguided. There is no guarantee as to the suitability of said circuits and information for any purpose whatsoever other than as a self-training aid. I.E. If it blows your equipments, trashes your hard disc, wipes your backup, burns your building down or just plain don't work, IT ISN'T MY FAULT. In the event of judicial ruling to the contrary, any liability shall be limited to the sum charged on you by us for the aforementioned document or nothing, whichever is the lower.

I will not be held responsible for any damages or costs which might occur as a result of my advice or designs. All of my designs are allowed to be used for commercial purposes without my written authorization.

Chemical Safety:
Use of any and all Chemicals is simple “Read the damn Label” and don’t be a Hero or an Idiot.

Use, Recycle, Reuse and Dispose of everything properly.

The blend door of the Cherokee is like most things with the Cherokee you either have it or will have it. Hopefully my findings here will help you out.

1.    Remove the blend door motor module by pulling back the carpet along the transmission tunnel wall on the passenger side and removing the (3) 8mm screws with a ¼ socket set with a universal joint makes things easier.

2.    Remove the Philips screws on the plastic carefully as you want to maintain the alignment of the blend door shaft and the internal potentiometer (BLUE POT). Take a photo or make a drawing of these positions before going further.

3.    Now pull all the gears out and using a clean rag and toothbrush remove all the old dried up white lithium grease from the gears and motor shaft. Also do not to forget to clean the grease out of the module case, use the rag and cotton swabs to get into the gear shaft holes.

4.    Apply a thin coating of NEW FRESH white lithium grease to the gears, motor shaft and onto the case module where these points contact and reinstall everything back into the module case and reseal it back up replacing the philips screws. (Remember to keep that blue pot and blend door shaft alignment).

4A. NOTE this should be the first step after removing or reinstalling the blend door module back into the vehicle. But, test the blend door by using your fingers and make sure the door moves freely and that the shaft is not broken and that the door itself is not just outright jammed/jamming up when you move it. There is some fair amount of torque needed to move that blend door back and forth hence all those gears in the module but it should be movable by using your fingers, if this door is not moving properly this repair will most likely not fix the issue you are having.

5.    Reinstall the blend door module back into the vehicle and you should be DONE!


3A. (Violet Arrow) If the small gear going to the motor seems tight then you are most likely correct. This gear has a tendency to swell up and becomes so tight on the shaft that most of the power from the little motor is wasted just trying to turn this gear alone. (How to test for this issue; Gently pry the motor out and install just this gear into the plastic case with new grease applied, if you have tension while trying to finger turn this gear you need to carefully use a rounded needle file to open the gear hole up. (DO THIS SLOWLY AND INCREMENTALLY CLEANING THE GEAR HOLE OUT WITH A COTTON SWAB TO REMOVE ANY PLASTIC, RE-APLLYING GREASE AND TESTING UNTIL YOU HAVE REMOVED THE TIGHTNESS ON THIS GEAR. DON’T RUSH THIS JOB AS YOU DO NOT WANT ANY SHAFT WOBBLE ON THIS PRIMARY DRIVE GEAR, YOU JUST NEED TO REMOVE THE TENSION FROM THE SHAFT THAT IS ROBBING THE TORQUE FROM GETTING TO THE BLEND DOOR).

3B. YES, this first gear is a different color because it is a different plastic then all the other gears. It’s a harder plastic as it should be for meshing with the worm gear on the motor.

3C. YES, my metal notches are chewed up a bit from me using a quarter to manually get the motor to rotate back over from HEAT.  But, yes a quarter fits these metal notches perfectly.

Blenddoor repair

2001 Jeep Cherokee EVAP Leak Error Codes

Having a EVAP service code (CEL=check engine light) being thrown? Check the evap rubber hoses. Start with the middle hose on the evap canister located under the left side of the truck and just in front of the drivers side rear axle.

Codes that can be caused by this hose leak; PO442 (Medium Leak), PO455 (Large Leak) & PO456 (Small Leak)

Why check here first, the fuel line is over stretched in order to fit onto the nipple of the evap canister and it is going to fail. My split tubing is still soft and supple, it is just over stretched by the wrong size tubing being used by the manufacture. Also, you do not seem to be able to purchase just this part you have to buy the whole plastic fuel line assembly... typical American waste.


oh, and before you go off saying that line is old and dry, its not. Only about 1-2mm right along the inside edge from environmental exposure to the evap canister nipple. Wrong part, in wrong place is what this is. They should have used the correct evap line sizes to avoid such a horrible miss-match in size going from that small plastic tube to the huge evap canister nipple, or they could have changed the evap nipple size. Sure, it's a small issue at the end of the day... but makes lot's of $$$$$ for repair departments and is wasteful for all the evap parts that get replaced and dumped into landfills due to simple parts.
A part that if available should be under $10 from the dealer.  BTW, repairing with standard 3/8 fuel line and a stainless steel clamp will cost you under $2, you will spend more time and money going to the parts store then what it cost in parts.
Dealer $84/hr, Smoke Test $74, Complete Plastic Fuel Line Assy' $76, Labor 1.5-2hrs at least. So, say $275 to $300 for this repair alone... or $2

etherkit OpenBeacon buildup!

Here is my quick buildup of the 30 meter Etherkit Open Beacon kit. Sorry no kit unboxing photos, just the buildup.

1. This is the case I used for my kit. It was purchased from FRY's many years ago and should serve nicely for this project.


2. Here I am working with a paper mock-up to find the best layout for the PCB in the case.


3. Board is mounted, along with crystal case for some form of temp control. Now switching over to heavy card stock for mock-up of the
USB, Power and RF output connection holes onto the back plate.


4. Keep it simple. I used nothing more then a caliper to measure and transfer that data onto the card stock, test fitting shows I am good to go with cutting the holes into the case. (YES! SOME JARL QRP CLUB PRIDE)


5. Holes cut using nothing more then hand drill and then finishing off with small hand files.


6. Here I have added the TX / FSK LED's and Reset switch to the case. Simple prototype board meterial used.


7. Here are the adjustment point locations on the bottom of the case (this will be more clear as to why I am pointing out the holes in the next image) . Also, I have hard mounted the power transistor to case, you do not need too do this with your kit.


8. The RF Power, Frequency and Bandwidth adjustment parts are mounted onto the bottom side of the board. The holes in the bottom of the case give access to these parts.


9. Now that the case stuff is all out of the way, let the board buildup begin. WOOT!


10. Looking Good! Only a few more parts to install.


11. Board installed and Burn-in testing being performed.


12. You can at this point see how I wired up the LED's and Reset switch. (
Testing @ 100mW)


13. Waveform shot.


14. A quick spectrum shot shows the 2nd is down about -44dBm.


15. Final test out procedures and call-sign programming. (10mW using USB for power)




1. Nice kit, easy to build and setup in under a few hours.

2. Software is MS-DOS based even if website says Windows. I'm old school so not an issue, some users may have issue getting software setup and or working due to lacking command line background.

3. The +5 volt regulator gets hotter then I'd like to see, may get out of spec depending on users power supply input. Would like to see this switched over to a TO-220 case pin-out on the PCB layout. Keep the +5 volt/100mA regulator in the kit, just change layout so users can add larger regulator if desired, or just add a TO-92 heatsink to the kit for the current 100mA regulator.

For the best HELL performance; Program the dfcw offset to 100, run the cal mode, now adjust the offset cap 'C3-Blue' for a bandwidth of 5hz. Mostly this will only apply to people running in HELL mode as the HELL signal just gets lost in the noise beyond 5hz. If you need to increase the dfcw bandwidth, just increase the dfcw offset in programming mode to more then 100 (Max.255). However, 5hz should get everyone seen without many problems and helps to conserve the 100hz total bandwidth for QRSS operations.

5. Thermal stabilize the crystal or you will drift wildly... I cannot express this enough.

6. After a few weeks of 24/7 running go back an re-adjust everything.

# # # #

This information and the circuits are provided as is without any express or implied warranties. While every effort has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this text, the authors/maintainers/contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein.

I disclaim everything. The contents of the articles might be totally inaccurate, inappropriate, or misguided. There is no guarantee as to the suitability of said circuits and information for any purpose whatsoever other than as a self-training aid. I.E. If it blows your equipments, trashes your hard disc, wipes your backup, burns your building down or just plain don't work, IT ISN'T MY FAULT. In the event of judicial ruling to the contrary, any liability shall be limited to the sum charged on you by us for the aforementioned document or nothing, whichever is the lower.

I will not be held responsible for any damages or costs which might occur as a result of my advice or designs. All of my designs are allowed to be used for commercial purposes without my written authorization.

Chemical Safety:
Use of any and all Chemicals is simple “Read the damn Label” and don’t be a Hero or an Idiot.

Use, Recycle, Reuse and Dispose of everything properly.

Ahhhh... those special mcdonalds touches

Can I get my ice cream cone with an extra cone condom please. Oh, and can you like cook it inside the cone and then wrap another one on the outside just for good measure, cone condoms are very important you know.

It's like a McDonald's Fortune Cookie. Me so sad... didn't get to enjoy my cone.

Hula Doll - Repair

SO it was time to finally add a Hula Girl to the Jeep, searching around I found that my local Advance Auto Parts has a pretty nice looking Hula Girl, my local store also showed it in stock and the price was perfect. This is her story.

1. I did not do an unpackaging because... well because I did not expect my little Hula Girl to have an issue after just one day. Yuup! You heard that right, one day and she failed me.

2. I mean really, one day on the dash of the Jeep and my Hula Girl is dropping her skirt. I pulled her off the dash (not much of a problem as they used some pretty cheap foam tape). Just an FYI, it was not very hot outside... it barely made it to the high 70's. So, WTF is up with that?

3. Here is WTF is up with that. I mean really! Fucking Hot Glue, are you serious… HOT FUCKING GLUE and not even very much of it, a few little blobs is all that was put on the skirt. No wonder my poor Hula Girl was striping for the neighbors.
Really let’s take a look at all the detail on this Hula Girl, someone put a lot of time into the details of the paint, even the Hula Girl skirt is well done by hand with great attention to details and then you get to the final assembly and you glob a bit of hot glue on the skirt and expect it to hold?
 I can only assume the person that made the decision to tack this skirt on with Hot Glue has never been inside an automobile in the summertime (The internal temperature of a typical car in the summer can be close to 200-F easily re-melting ANYTHING with HOT GLUE on it.)  But, I’ll digress no more A
dvance Auto Parts, let’s get our Hula Girl fixed up.

4. Time to get out the sewing supplies. That’s right; all you need to do to solve this issue is run a couple of stitches into the back of the skirt and Bob’s Your Uncle. I used the rubber band to hold the skirt together till I got a few stitches in and that’s all you need to do, just make sure you tie off the ends with a square or surgeons knot and you are good to go. (You may need pliers to held push the need into the folded area of the skirt an also helps keep from poking those fingers.)

5. How about that foam mounting tape. Sheesh! It’s a jeep so I’m going with some good 3M side panel tape (the black stuff, also from
advance auto parts); this way if the Jeep does a 180 the last thing I have to worry about is her flying around the cockpit area whacking me in the head.

6. DONE! She has been placed back onto the dashboard for a couple weeks now and we have even had some 90-F days here and she has not dropped her skirt once, nor has the 3M mounting tape budged.

Final Remarks;
this is a great item and if you are in the market for a dashboard Hula Girl you cannot go wrong with all the awesome details someone has put into her.
However, what I see here is it’s like running the Boston Marathon and getting 10-20 feet from the finish line and going over and sitting on the curb. That’s in reference to the use of HOT GLUE on the skirt, there really needs to be some sort of ridged fastener to hold the skirt together at the back, I believe a long time ago they actually used a small metal snap or hook like fastener like what is used on bras. Worse case here is they could just use tag pinning, that is those little plastic strings that hold price tags onto cloths that you have to pull out or cut off, at least this is not going to melt from the heat in the car like HOT GLUE will always.

* Great paint details
* Great hula skirt details
* Shakes her booty nicely when you drive
* Fails with HOT GLUE being used to hold the skirt on?!?!?! DUMB?!?!

Bell Automotive Hula Doll
Part No. AC723/221367078
5008 Airport Road
Roanoke, VA. 24012

  • This is finally the transitional operating system we needed. Meaning, this OS is designed to work on Desktop, Laptop and more specifically the huge wave of new Touchscreen tablet/laptops about to hit the market at the end of 2012.

  • If you are a company and avoided the Vista debacle and have started the transition to say Windows 7, right now I would say stop and wait, unless you are just so deep into the transition that it just makes financial sense to finish the transition from XP/Vista to Windows 7. (> then 78% transitioned)

  • Memory suck should be a thing of the past.

  • Compatibility issues? So far based on the W8DS1 Microsoft has gone out of the way to allow XP/Vista/7 programs you have already purchased to run, this is very important regarding legacy drivers. Will this change?? possibly and yes. Here is why. Windows 8 security wise is going to lock down the system even tighter then Vista tried too. This is in regards to signed drivers and user installed software. Again, this is the transitional OS that Vista was supposed to be and better security is always a good thing. Basically prepare yourself for programs that are not compliant/signed and may never be depending on that software's company decision not to make it so.

  • W82 is seriously designed for Touchscreens. No longer will you have a desktop, a laptop and then an iPAD. Windows 8 will create a device that will do all these things and more. This is the direction we really all want to go and Windows 8 will make that happen. A device you can use at the work desk, take to a meeting room, on the road and take home for telecommuting.

    W82 will only work if hardware manufactures get it right from the start. The Touchscreen laptops must be like a transformer. Having enough power to go from desktop, to laptop and then to touchscreen, if this fails to happen. Windows 8 will fail transitionally as the next OS. A good example here is the old HP TC1100, it did everything OK with XP and touch functions, it just lacked the hardware power to do everything really well.. this is not a problem today. So, really manufactures must get this transformer thing down perfectly from allowing one device to go from Desktop, to Laptop to Touchscreen and there is zero reason other then lack of innovation or foolish short sighted greed that this will not happen.

  • Microsoft please go back to the older marketing model. Believe it or not users like it simple, we never had to wade through Windows NT Basic, Advanced, Mega, Ultra, Ultra Mega, Super Advance, Mega Super Silver Advance, Gold, Mega Gold Advance or any thing like this crap. It's marketing crippleware and it's Bullshit. Please just make 2 versions, Home and Pro and be done with it. Also, don't do crippleware shit like you did in Vista that you had to have the business version to store passwords for mapped drives on the network... I mean really are you serious? On a network, every user today has some form of network and access to this thing called the Internet.

  • Lots of shiny touchscreens from manufactures with minimal of dual-core power and nice/swanky docking stations should be the future for everyone. True locked down Desktops will be fewer as touchscreen laptops have gained sufficient speed and tons of memory options.. yes even Gamers should be happy with W8 at the end of the day. Especially with all the new touchscreen games that will blow the iPAD away.

  • Get rid of all CD/DVD installation. It is 2012 already please use USB ROM thumb-drives, especially with the new USB3 standards. Again at this point no manufactures should be building anything that does not have USB3 as standard. If they do they are trying to save penny’s, makes me wonder what else they cheaped out on... USB3 is the standard, USB2 is the legacy hardware at this point. Also, other then old legacy equipment everything should be bootable VIA the USB ports.. Again it's 2012 not 1984. Let's start buying new hardware folk's.

  • During the Installation add an option that ask directly if you wish to boot into the Metro UI3, or into the antiquated XP Desktop screen. Use a picture option like they have at McDonald’s for people who cannot read to show the user what the difference is. This should help avoid those users that go nuts when things look different. Lets all keep in mind that people have been using the XP style desktop interface since October 2001 and XP still holds over 40% of all desktops. Give them this boot user interface choice or you'll regret it.

  • Even as a development snapshot this version has performed extremely well. I have purposely crashed it many times just to see how it recovers, doing things such as system reset and it performed amazingly well compared to previous operating systems (98-XP-Vista-7). Drivers were easily reloaded and the system recovered back to a nice clean install status. I noticed it did require me to place the DVD into the drive, so the development version is obviously not creating a restore partition on the drive with all the DVD contents. I'll assume that's just a quirk at this point of it being a development version? Users should never have to dig out CD/DVD or USB thumb-drives to reinstall the OS to a new/clean/repair state. Exception naturally is having to install a new HDD, SSD or Hybrid on the system.

  • 64-bits folks, ask for it, demand it on everything new that you buy. 2-4 CPU core laptop touchscreens the standard by the end of 2012 and 4-6 cores by the end of 2013, that is what I would love to see and I think we have a good chance at it.

  • iPAD killer? Not a slight against Apple BTW, I happen to love my iPOD.
    Depends on what you are really looking for. But I'll say this. Why would I buy an iPAD for $700 when I will be able to soon buy a Toshiba touchscreen with 400x the spec's of the iPAD for the same price, or even less. Personally and from any business point of view the iPAD is what we will and are using as the limbo stick and no offense. What's really new with anything from Apple? The embedded device (iPAD) has reached a plateau that every manufacture has and will far exceed by the end of 2012. I'd relegate the iPAD to being the device that started it all in the history books and that's a great place to be, Apple has many spots in the history book. But history is supposed to march on, not stand still and that's what is about to happen with Windows 8 and all the hundreds of new touchscreen devices about to pounce onto the marketplace.
    Apple has a fan base and it may remain, but only due to new devices in the pipeline and the innovation to steal pieces from others, putting all those pieces together into one clean looking device and then to patent the hell out of every damn part of it. Sad, true and we all know it, Jobs even admitted to doing it.
    China may be the future for Apple iPAD?!? The lack of fire control over patent rights will mean that Apple has to actually innovate like a sled dog on a treadmill with a flame thrower shooting up it's ass. Not sure they are up to doing that, or even willing to put themselves into that kind of meat grinder and besides wages for Chinese workers are going up (Yeah), means lower profit margins unless Apple is heading to Africa to build the next new thing?
    After all look at how many actual products has Apple brought to market in 10 years, iPhone, iPod-iTunes and the iPad. Just because you make the device in a new color or add a new feature (iSri) does not make you innovative and people will catch on and get board. Features and price will make the sale at the end of the day and so far the iPAD has faced little if any competition, that is about to change and all the little Patent trolls will be working overtime to block everything that comes to the marketplace, even if it's just intended to hold their market share for a few extra months (Apple vs. Samsung). The patent system failure is just the beginning of the touchscreen Patent wars that will drag the entire patent system and electronics innovation down into the mud fight for several years to come until real changes come to the patent system.

  • Oh Jesus yet another Microsoft fan-boy, Apple hating MF.
    Nope, actually anyone that knows me is aware I use Linux Mint & Ubuntu every chance I get. However, I am not stupid to the fact that as of January 2012, Windows is used on 92% of all non-phone and non-tablet computers and that's just a damn well documented fact.
    Windows 8 will be and is going to be the huge move forward we have all been waiting for, pending the hardware manufactures willingness to support it and from the early peeks from them, they will do a great job. The disclaimer here naturally is a few manufactures will go the cheap route (flimsy plastic cases, crap connectors, easily damaged touch screens, poor CPU power, minimal memory and not upgradable, low battery life and so forth, just look at some of the shitty Android devices from China) and thus making W8 look like a horrible piece of crap. Hopefully these cheap guys will be the oddball and not the norm starting out the door for Windows version 8.

  • So, basically a big Cheers and Good Luck to Microsoft on a good looking product so far. I'd buy stock prior to the release of Windows 8 but I would get into trouble.

  1. Windows 8 Developer Snapshot

  2. Windows 8

  3. Metro User Interface



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  • FUNKAMATEUR Jahrgangs-CDs 1995 bis 2014 - 20er-CD-Pack (www.box73.de)

  • FUNKAMATEUR Jahrgangs-CD 2015 (www.box73.de)

  • Pickles

  • I'll also accept anything that covers QRP, RF, RADIO, Electronics, Physics, Optics... etc.

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