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My BUS PIRATE finally arrived VIA snail-mail today.
1. The little box that could. Shipped from my friends in Hong Kong, the shipping times are hell when you live on the east coast.
2. Here we have the nicely packed Bus Pirate circuit board. Sckweee!
3. Bottom Side
4. Top Side
5. Misc stuff I bought since it was on sale, just a couple small Tx/Rx sets.
NOW THE REAL FUN BEGINS... Probing anything & everything that has a data line.
(Works with: 1-Wire, UART, I2C, SPI, JTAG, raw 2-wire, raw 3-wire, PC keyboard, HD44780 LCDs, MIDI)
1. VFO power supply using a standard 7805 regulator.
2. Transmitter schematic... again nothing special this design has been around forever. (Not shown is the -10dBm attenator after the buffer transistor).
3. BP filter for HiFER band. I did everything to ensure using standard cap values. (the filter program used is called ELSIE)
4. Filter response plots. The SWR (BLUE Lines) has an odd ball peak because of me locking in the cap values to standard OTS (off the shelf) part values and the bandpass filtering (RED Lines) shows this filter is able to keep me well within the FCC limits for harmonics.
5. Load testing of the completed transmitter assy'. Output is 3.5mW into 50ohms.
6. Microcontroller prototype and software debugging. This starts Phase 3 of the HiFER project. A small note here regarding this board, it is not the final uC board. It was made up just for testing the transmitter and debugging the software code. The final version of the uC board will most likely use a PIC 10F206 microcontroller having a SOT-23 foot print. The LCD is just for debugging the 16F84 and will not be in the final design.
Disclaimer:
This information and the circuits are provided as is without any express or implied warranties. While every effort has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this text, the authors/maintainers/contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein.
I disclaim everything. The contents of the articles might be totally inaccurate, inappropriate, or misguided. There is no guarantee as to the suitability of said circuits and information for any purpose whatsoever other than as a self-training aid. I.E. If it blows your equipments, trashes your hard disc, wipes your backup, burns your building down or just plain don't work, IT ISN'T MY FAULT. In the event of judicial ruling to the contrary, any liability shall be limited to the sum charged on you by us for the aforementioned document or nothing, whichever is the lower.
I will not be held responsible for any damages or costs which might occur as a result of my advice or designs. All of my designs are allowed to be used for commercial purposes without my written authorization.
Chemical Safety:
Use of any and all Chemicals is simple “Read the damn Label” and don’t be a Hero or an Idiot.
Use, Recycle, Reuse and Dispose of everything properly.
I'll also assume they did not scoop up the nasty jelly beans off the floor and put them in the bag, but you just never know.
_ 
When I was a kiddie this is how close to Mexico I lived. We use to travel in and out of Mexico in that run down Winnebago without even thinking about it and not just to the border towns, we use to spend our summer vacations deep in Mexico, digging around in caves and camping and you know how many problems we ever had? 0, Zero
Not to mention I was spoiled by having big open parks in my back yard and all around me.
Not to mention I was spoiled by having big open parks in my back yard and all around me.
1. Locate and purchase the replacement bulbs. Pep-Boys Auto store, less then $5 for a 2 pack. The LL is supposed to indicate LongLife type bulbs, we will see about that.
2. Remove all the shit that is normal in the back of the car, you need to get to this side panel behind the tail light inside the car. Remove these two plastic caps and then take out the two screws... if the cover did not fall off when you removed the screws gently pull on the plastic cover and it should come right off.
3. You should now have access to the back panel cover. Use a small flat blade screwdriver or pen knife to lift up on the center pin of this fastener. You can also use a pair of sharp nose needle pliers like I did and it will pull the center pin out. NOTE: These are not screws they are push fasteners, see the next photo for what you are dealing with here.
4. Closeup of these fasteners. Note that they do have a small flat edge to help get under to pop it out. However, it is dark and I am damn near blind so you will not see this flat part until you actually remove the fastener from the panel.
5. Also, this back panel has several latches along the edge, take your time when pulling out this larger back panel so you don't snap off any of the ears. Still it should come off easily.
6. Unless you f'ed-up something to this point, this is what you should have now pulled out of the car. This now gives you access to the single 10mm nut you will need to remove the tail light assy'.... but not yet!
7. Before you remove the 10mm nut inside, you should remove these two screws.
8. Now go in and remove the 10mm nut from the inside. I have marked the 10mm nut and the white plastic alignment pin. (This alignment pin use to be the other 10mm nut noted in some service manuals. However, it was removed to speed up the mfg process and save money.
9. Now the fun part. Pulling the tail light assy' out. You may need to wiggle it a bit and if you have long enough arms reach around and push the white plastic alignment pin from the back as it is soft plastic and tends to catch on the edges of the hole. Again, take your time and it will come out easily with a bit of wiggle. The Items marked here are; Plastic alignment pin, 10mm stud and the brake(STOP) light socket... to open the socket a simple 1/4 turn twist will pop it free an allow access to the lamp.
10. A small push an twist removes the old light bulb and reverse the push and twist to insert the new light bulb. At this point continue to leave it out of the tail light assy' and go press down on the brake pedal and if the lamp lights you are done except for reversing the disassembly process. However, if the light did not come on, use the other bulb in the package and retest... if still no light you have other issues. REALLY! Make sure you are inserting the bulb completely. PUSH and TWIST
10A. Very Optional: When I removed the lamp I noticed some corrosion/oxidation on the contacts. SO, here is socket contact cleaning 101. When using these cleaners always spay it onto a q-tip first and then wipe the contacts. Do Not and I do mean DO NOT EVER spray these cleaners directly into the sockets or onto plastic parts without fully testing them for plastic/rubber breakdown, as some and pretty much all these chemical cleaners can damaged the plastic and or rubber parts in some way.
Yeah Yeah I know they say they are safe. But do you want to risk going from a simple light bulb replacement to a socket replacement? 15min of work or a couple hours replacing a socket because you sprayed a cleaner into it. Using q-tips has saved my ass more then once and again this is an optional item to begin with so for 94% of you reading this just move along to the next step.
11. Use a rag and clean out the tail light compartment and reverse all these instructions to reinstall the tail light assy' and then Recheck the tail light by pressing on the brake pedal. Marked here are the alignment hole for the plastic pin and the 10mm stud hole.
If all went well it should take you 15-20min and you will not even need to GoJo your hands. Then again you can take it to the dealer and pay about $75-100 bucks to have them replace the $2.50 lamp.
Disclaimer:
This information and the circuits are provided as is without any express or implied warranties. While every effort has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this text, the authors/maintainers/contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein.
I disclaim everything. The contents of the articles might be totally inaccurate, inappropriate, or misguided. There is no guarantee as to the suitability of said circuits and information for any purpose whatsoever other than as a self-training aid. I.E. If it blows your equipments, trashes your hard disc, wipes your backup, burns your building down or just plain don't work, IT ISN'T MY FAULT. In the event of judicial ruling to the contrary, any liability shall be limited to the sum charged on you by us for the aforementioned document or nothing, whichever is the lower.
I will not be held responsible for any damages or costs which might occur as a result of my advice or designs. All of my designs are allowed to be used for commercial purposes without my written authorization.
Chemical Safety:
Use of any and all Chemicals is simple “Read the damn Label” and don’t be a Hero or an Idiot.
Use, Recycle, Reuse and Dispose of everything properly.
* Transmitter
* Microcontroller Board
* Antenna
* Solar/Wind Power Supply
* Systems Integration and Testing
* Site locations and Permissions
* System Installation and Verification
* Announcement
1. Here we are performing some initial testing to see what will be needed to get up and running on the 22meter band.
1A. Above is the LPF (low pass filter) built and used for initial testing. (Below) this is the CW transmitter under test.
2. Here we have quickly moving into Phase 2 of the Transmitter design an refining the system parts layout.
3. Transmitter and Power Supply closeup. The wire mesh was added during the testing phase of this project, it is not needed during the normal run condition as the total output power is well below 4mw.
5. Closeup view of the new and improved band notch filter verses the earlier LPF and note the seperation between the transmitter and the output filtering section using PCB material.
6. Starting to add some of the FSK parts (NPO Caps,Resistors & Red LED) and added parts to monitor the output power directly at the BNC connector after it passes through the notch filter.
7. Fruit Canned! This is what it looks like with the shield on, with my improved notch filter and this shield my second harmonic is -50dbm and the 3rd is down around -70dbm. So, the notch filter is the way to go versus the LPF, it takes a few more parts. However, it is worth the clean signal output.
8. The unit has been transmitting for several weeks now to burn in the transmitter and I have starting working on the Microcontroller Board (Phase 3). I have plenty of room on the board to do a lot of things. So, we will see what happens next as I may still try jamming the Microcontroller into the VFO section.
Build Notes:
* Remove jumper wire from load match resistors between buffer amp and Notch filter.
* Remove wire mesh or cut it down on buffer transistor.
* Decide on using DFCW or just CW for op mode. No matter keep the sending speed at about 5-wpm.
* Microcontroller mounting (Internal or External of the VFO). Factors; Noise, Heat (Types 206's or 675's)
* Live output monitoring not needed with current design. However, leave parts on board for future use.
FCC Information regarding the ISM 22meter band also called the HiFER band.
Frequency Band: 13.553-13.567 MHz
Type of Use: ANY MODE
Emission Limit: 15,848 microvolts/meter at 30 meters (As measured with a Tuned FSM & 1 meter long omni directional antenna)
Detection Method: quasi-peak (Quasi-peak means 'not quite peak', or 'aiming towards peak but not actually peak'.)
FCC Guidelines: 47 CFR §15 (FCC rules and regulations, mainly regarding unlicensed transmissions.)
Section 15.225 Operation within the band 13.110 – 14.010 MHz.
(a) The field strength of any emissions within the band 13.553-13.567 MHz shall not exceed 15,848 microvolts/meter at 30 meters.
(b) Within the bands 13.410-13.553 MHz and 13.567-13.710 MHz, the field strength of any emissions shall not exceed 334 microvolts/meter at 30 meters.
(c) Within the bands 13.110-13.410 MHz and 13.710-14.010 MHz the field strength of any emissions shall not exceed 106 microvolts/meter at 30 meters.
(d) The field strength of any emissions appearing outside of the 13.110-14.010 MHz band shall not exceed the general radiated emission limits in § 15.209.
(e) The frequency tolerance of the carrier signal shall be maintained within +/- 0.01% of the operating frequency over a temperature variation of –20 degrees to +50 degrees C at normal supply voltage, and for a variation in the primary supply voltage from 85% to 115% of the rated supply voltage at a temperature of 20 degrees C. For battery operated equipment, the equipment tests shall be performed using a new battery.
(f) In the case of radio frequency powered tags designed to operate with a device authorized under this section, the tag may be approved with the device or be considered as a separate device subject to its own authorization. Powered tags approved with a device under a single application shall be labeled with the same identification number as the device.
Disclaimer:
This information and the circuits are provided as is without any express or implied warranties. While every effort has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this text, the authors/maintainers/contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein.
I disclaim everything. The contents of the articles might be totally inaccurate, inappropriate, or misguided. There is no guarantee as to the suitability of said circuits and information for any purpose whatsoever other than as a self-training aid. I.E. If it blows your equipments, trashes your hard disc, wipes your backup, burns your building down or just plain don't work, IT ISN'T MY FAULT. In the event of judicial ruling to the contrary, any liability shall be limited to the sum charged on you by us for the aforementioned document or nothing, whichever is the lower.
I will not be held responsible for any damages or costs which might occur as a result of my advice or designs. All of my designs are allowed to be used for commercial purposes without my written authorization.
Chemical Safety:
Use of any and all Chemicals is simple “Read the damn Label” and don’t be a Hero or an Idiot.
Use, Recycle, Reuse and Dispose of everything properly.
Thief of Joules that is...
This project is pretty simple and everyone has built one so I might as well join in too.
What's its purpose? Simple, they suck the last bit of power out of "dead" batteries and provide some useful light while doing it. You hear correctly It is intended that you use old discarded AA or AAA types but if you want to stick a new battery in I'm sure it would last a hell of a long time.
Basically it is a nice night light to read a book with.
1. My nasty circuit just solder tacked together.
2. So, does it work? YES! It's actually pretty damn bright and YES that is a dead AA battery I am using.
3. Schematic... play with the values and layout and as always have fun.
The Massive Parts List: Battery Holder, 1K resistor, 22nf cap, GP NPN transistor, White LEDs, about 20-26cm of wire (x2) & something to use as an Iron Core. The core can be a nail or bolt just add a thin layer of tape before wrapping the wire to help keep it from getting nicked.
Disclaimer:
This information and the circuits are provided as is without any express or implied warranties. While every effort has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this text, the authors/maintainers/contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein.
I disclaim everything. The contents of the articles might be totally inaccurate, inappropriate, or misguided. There is no guarantee as to the suitability of said circuits and information for any purpose whatsoever other than as a self-training aid. I.E. If it blows your equipments, trashes your hard disc, wipes your backup, burns your building down or just plain don't work, IT ISN'T MY FAULT. In the event of judicial ruling to the contrary, any liability shall be limited to the sum charged on you by us for the aforementioned document or nothing, whichever is the lower.
I will not be held responsible for any damages or costs which might occur as a result of my advice or designs. All of my designs are allowed to be used for commercial purposes without my written authorization.
Chemical Safety:
Use of any and all Chemicals is simple “Read the damn Label” and don’t be a Hero or an Idiot.
Use, Recycle, Reuse and Dispose of everything properly.
Problem(s);
1. Will not stay running and, or runs rough and seems to always be searching for speed regulation point
2. if I manage to get the engine running the unit will stall out within 15-20 seconds and sometimes fuel shoots out the gas tank vent holes VIA back pressure
3. pulling the mower backwards causes the the speed to become unstable? Yes, it made me think of the governor spring too! IT'S NOT THE PROBLEM HERE
How I fixed my problem:
Replace the DIAPHRAGM that goes between the plastic carb and fuel tank. I ordered mine from my local True Value for $3.84 and had it in 2 days.
BRIGGS PART 795083
Stens Part 520-175 www.stens.com
Don't bother looking for the parts break down at the Briggs and Stratton website you will not find the Model 10A902 engine listed. Just do a Google and you will find the parts manual breakdown on several shops that repair and or sell repair parts.
What you are looking for is the Illustrated Parts List for Model Series 10A900 Type Numbers 0015 through 2296.
First things first.
* Did you clean out the gas tank out and use new fresh fuel. (( AND BY FRESH I MEAN JUST WENT TO THE PUMP AND P
* Clean the AIR FILTER, everyone forgets to do this one.
* Check the spark plug, clean or replace as needed.
* Make sure you do not have trash under the pull start housing that can cause over-heating problems.
* Pull off the fuel tank assy' remove the plastic carb and clean the fuel pickup filter and all the fuel ports with a piece of wire. At this point you can inspect the diaphragm between the fuel tank and carb. My suggestion here is If the mower is a few years old and you are having any problems like mine it is cheaper and easier to just go ahead and replace the diaphragm since you have everything disassembled.
1. My Model Type & Code Info for the B&S 4hp engine. This is always stamped on a metal part of the engine.
2. You are here so you might as well check the Brake and Kill Switch for any issues.
3. The Carb looks very clean (If you keep the air filter maintained it should always look like this). Here we can also see the governor spring painted yellow. I have always wished they would just paint the whole spring... but they have always just added a touch of paint?!? Why is it important? You need the correct spring if the engine ramps up and down in speed due to it becoming weak with age and on this model you can have a lot of variations due to model year an such (Light Blue, Black,Light Green,White,Yellow,Brown,Dark Green,Pink,Orange,Red or Gold) sometimes it is hard to see the color once it is covered with shit from the yard after years of operation.
4. Pulling the tank/carb off is as easy as 2 bolts and pulling the spring link off the throttle with pliers. This is most likely the only part you will need any real tools for, just a small socket set to remove the 2 bolts holding the tank is all you should need. Btw, this is known as a Briggs Pulsa Prime Carb and all the jets are factory set. So, if you have a carb issue you have to replace the whole unit, it will cost about $28 bucks and I am unsure if it comes with a new diaphragm or if you have to buy it separately.
5. With the tank off take a look around and clean any trash out of the motor area, compressed air works great here and don't forget to plug that oil fill hole first. I found some material between the tank shield and the motor cooling fins.
6. Here is the repair kit package and the OLD assy'. When you compare this to the new diaphragm (already installed) you can tell how much the pump spring has stretched out the rubber material. BTW, this is actually two parts you have a rubber part and a paper gasket part so make sure to stack them correctly and line them up carefully before you tighten down the 5 screws holding the carb to the tank.
There ya go, now reverse it all to put it back together and you will back up and running in no time.
Expect to have a total time from tear down, cleaning, replacing the part and having the mower back running should take roughly 20min... unless you fuck up. ;-) Oh, and that time also includes me pulling the spark plug, cleaning it and pulling off the blade and sharpening it.
Hope it helps someone out there and if you need more info just ask and Don't Let It Intimidate You! This is a really easy repair to do with only a few hand tools an a little bit of time. I checked and if you have someone else do this repair for you it will cost about $60 plus parts. NUTS just do it yourself.
Disclaimer:
This information and the circuits are provided as is without any express or implied warranties. While every effort has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this text, the authors/maintainers/contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein.
I disclaim everything. The contents of the articles might be totally inaccurate, inappropriate, or misguided. There is no guarantee as to the suitability of said circuits and information for any purpose whatsoever other than as a self-training aid. I.E. If it blows your equipments, trashes your hard disc, wipes your backup, burns your building down or just plain don't work, IT ISN'T MY FAULT. In the event of judicial ruling to the contrary, any liability shall be limited to the sum charged on you by us for the aforementioned document or nothing, whichever is the lower.
I will not be held responsible for any damages or costs which might occur as a result of my advice or designs. All of my designs are allowed to be used for commercial purposes without my written authorization.
Chemical Safety:
Use of any and all Chemicals is simple “Read the damn Label” and don’t be a Hero or an Idiot.
Use, Recycle, Reuse and Dispose of everything properly.
This data is correct for July 30th, 2009
| Pioneer 10 | Pioneer 11 | Voyager 2 | Voyager 1 | New Horizons | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Distance from Sun (AU) | 98.784 | 79.008 | 89.678 | 110.642 | 14.074 |
| Speed relative to Sun (km/s) | 12.092 | 11.460 | 15.499 | 17.086 | 16.929 |
| Speed relative to Sun (AU/year) | 2.551 | 2.418 | 3.270 | 3.604 | 3.571 |
| Ecliptic Latitude | 3.0° | 14.4° | -32.7° | 34.9° | 1.6° |
| Declination (J2000) | 25.90° | -8.53° | -54.83° | 12.39° | -21.71° |
| Right Ascension (J2000) | 5.132 hrs | 18.662 hrs | 19.779 hrs | 17.104 hrs | 18.065 hrs |
| Constellation | Tau | Sct | Tel | Oph | Sgr |
| Distance from Earth (AU) | 99.443 | 78.134 | 88.874 | 110.147 | 13.247 |
| One-way light time (hours) | 13.78 | 10.83 | 12.32 | 15.27 | 1.84 |
| Magnitude of Sun from spacecraft | -16.7 | -17.2 | -16.9 | -16.5 | -21.0 |
| Spacecraft still functioning ? | No | No | Yes | Yes | Yes |
| Launch date | Mar 3, 1972 | Apr 6, 1973 | Aug 20, 1977 | Sep 5, 1977 | Jan 19, 2006 |
The astronomical unit, or AU, is the average distance between the Earth and Sun. It is a convenient unit to use when expressing distances within the solar system. The AU, as defined in the IAU (1976) system of constants, is equal to 149 597 870 km.
In terms of other units, 1 AU is equal to;
| 92 955 807 | miles |
| 499.004 782 | light seconds |
| 1 / 63 241 | light-years |
Datum Sourced VIA: http://heavens-above.com
p.s. don't forget to visit the JPL FREE SPIRIT website and lets all hope that our little rover friend can escape from the Martians sand trap located at position Troy.
Alright, I had a little fun with Gimp this morning.
Vista =
pareidolia
There is an universal tendency among mankind to conceive all beings like themselves, and to transfer to every object, those qualities, with which they are familiarly acquainted, and of which they are intimately conscious. We find human faces in the moon, armies in the clouds; and by a natural propensity, if not corrected by experience and reflection, ascribe malice or good- will to every thing, that hurts or pleases us. --David Hume
WALTER L CRONKITE, JR (KB2GSD)
51 W 52 ST STE 1934
NEW YORK, NY 10019
USA
"and that's the way it is"
- Mood:
sad
I started with a basic layout and gave lots of space to play around with jumpers an so forth... So try no to freak out when you see my SMD board take up the same size specs as thru-hole. Remember I am also limited to parts on hand an ripped out of other boards... ever try finding a 332 ohm smd resistor? Heck I'm surprised I found what I did, as my junk board supply is getting low. ;-)
Lets start the Version 1 build.:
1. Here is what I started with as for POC (Proof of Concept) layout. (Aka. Version 1)
2. Version 1 tinned and ready for action.
3. Getting the big tub of solder paste ready to transfer into the syring and bag of various blunt tips... still that small one will punch some skin if you are not paying attention.
4. Standard lead based alloy SMD soldering paste... nothing special.
5. What you should have when it is all loaded and ready. Yeah I know manual application sucks but you do what you gotta do and don't forget to put the tub of solder paste and your new syring back into the fridge when done.
6. Here the board is loaded with the solder paste and the parts ready to be reflowed. Keep in mind all my parts are RFE (Removed From Equipment) so they already have solder on them, thats why you only see little dobbs of new solder paste on the board.
7. and now soldering it all together, keep that air pressure low unless you wanna pick smd parts off the floor and out of your hair. :-)
8. Here is the final Version 1 proof of concept... it worked ok and naturally I can do better on the layout to get rid of all, or most of the jumpers and some other various issues I had with this layout.
Doing A Better Job!
9. Here we have Version 2, the copper has been etched it is now ready for the mask to be removed and the board area to be tinned.
10. Version 2 tinned and ready for soldering.
11. All parts mounted and already tested. The area around the LM613 looks nasty as I had to swap out the IC. Yeah I also know the HUGE 332 ohm resistor is way out of place. However, I am still hopeful I will run across an smd version and I will swap it out then.
12. New/Used LM613 installed and powered up for testing.
13. and the end result of all this... A nice reliable +10.00 volt DC RMS source for calibration. I am very happy and I still gave myself way plenty of room on the board to play around with in the future. I will also most likely add an RF shield to the board since it will be enclosed inside another enclosure that will expose it to multiple RF sources.
Build Notes;
1. I have no source for LM613's other then the couple of scrap pcbs'.
2. National Semiconductor has stopped mfg of the LM613... no new part created as a replacement.
3. This is an easy +10.00volt reference source project everyone should build one.
4. I'm sure a couple more things, but it's late and I'm going to bed now.
AS ALWAYS Questions & Comments are welcome.
Disclaimer:
This information and the circuits are provided as is without any express or implied warranties. While every effort has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this text, the authors/maintainers/contributors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein.
I disclaim everything. The contents of the articles might be totally inaccurate, inappropriate, or misguided. There is no guarantee as to the suitability of said circuits and information for any purpose whatsoever other than as a self-training aid. I.E. If it blows your equipments, trashes your hard disc, wipes your backup, burns your building down or just plain don't work, IT ISN'T MY FAULT. In the event of judicial ruling to the contrary, any liability shall be limited to the sum charged on you by us for the aforementioned document or nothing, whichever is the lower.
I will not be held responsible for any damages or costs which might occur as a result of my advice or designs. All of my designs are allowed to be used for commercial purposes without my written authorization.
Chemical Safety:
Use of any and all Chemicals is simple “Read the damn Label” and don’t be a Hero or an Idiot.
Use, Recycle, Reuse and Dispose of everything properly.
Are you interested in intergalactic travel? What would you hope to discover? Presented by Intel, Sponsors of Tomorrow. |
p.s. See'ya at Millyways
Here are a couple of photos from the kill zone... explodingalice will have the full photo spread available on her Flicker account most likely by the end of the week.
and the best one of the night and also the one that damn near took out the combat photographer.
Thanks again everyone for Beirut 2009!
*(This photo is not of the one we actually owned as pretty much all my family photos have been lost. However, this is just like what we use to own... or rather what my parents use to own).
I also know it had a Chrysler motor in it that use to drive my father bat shit and damn that thing dripped more oil then OPEC. Great summer fun... sucky motor!
and this pop-up is for Dali
*Richard Neuman has some great artwork for RV's and Camping.
1) Are you currently in a serious relationship?
A. Married, so Yeah
2) What was your dream growing up?
A. To be Me
3) What talent do you wish you had?
A. Code Writing
4) If I bought you a drink what would it be?
A. Rum and Coke
5) Favorite vegetable?
A. Canned Green beans... love the shit out of them
6) What was the last book you read?
A. ISBN: 0-87259-914-0, actually I am not finished yet
7) What zodiac sign are you?
A. Taurus, considered a "feminine" and ruled by the planet Venus who would have known ;-)
8) Any Tattoos and/or Piercings? Explain where.
A. Yes, tattoo on shoulder
9) Worst Habit?
A. Sulking
10) What is your favorite sport?
A. Men's & Women's Air Rifle, followed by Soccer
11) Do you have a Negative or Optimistic attitude?
A. Years ago it would have been Optimistic, now it's just Negative
12) What would you do if you were stuck in an elevator?
A. Been there for almost 2 fucking hours, if it ever happens again I'll kick the walls and take a piss and shit on the floor until some lazy mother fucken security asshole presses a single button to reset the system controller.
13) Worst thing to ever happen to you?
A. I dunno yet, but I'll tell you when we get to Milliways
14) Tell me one weird fact about you.
A. I have a toe nail that gets all funky
15) Do you have any pets?
A. Yeah, lots of fuzzy critters
16) What if someone showed up at your house unexpectedly?
A. COOL! lets sacrifice a bucket of chicken, drink mass quantities and sing Irish pub songs?
17) Do you think clowns are cute or scary?
A. SCARY, even at my age they are still freak-en scary
18) If you could change one thing about how you look, what would it be?
A. oh now lets not go there, that opportunity is long past
19) Would you be my crime partner or my conscience?
A. Now that depends on what I'll be getting out of it
20) What color eyes do you have?
A. Blue
21) Ever been arrested?
A. Nope not today! but, then the day's not over and I have not finished posting
22) Bottle or can soda?
A. Bottle
23) If you won $10,000 today, what would you do with it?
A. pop-up camper an some time away from this place
24) What's your favorite place to hang at?
A. my mind, its all I have
25) Do you believe in ghosts?
A. I am a ghost
26) Favorite thing to do in your spare time?
A. all my time is spare so I do what I do
27) Do you swear a lot?
A. yeah, more then I should
28) Biggest pet peeve?
A. 99% being controlled by 1%
29) In one word, how would you describe yourself?
A. ASSHOLE, or FUCKEN ASSHOLE... either one works
30) Do you believe/appreciate romance?
A. sure
31) Do you believe in God?
A. I don't have time for fairy tales anymore then I believe the world is flat, the earth is the center of the universe, comets are demons, strong females are witches to be burned or drowned and that sea monsters swim around the oceans eating ships up.
